Steelhead Diner by Deborah Ashin

A quirky cross between a traditional ‘50s diner (but without any kitsch) and a trendy bistro (but without any pretension), Steelhead is a vibrant restaurant that reflects the vision of husband-and-wife team, Kevin and Terresa Davis. Together, they've created an inviting but decidedly cool restaurant that serves fresh interpretations of classic home-style comfort food. Steelhead Diner, which opened last year in the heart of Pike Place Market, captures the historic spirit of Seattle while offering an inspired menu in a stylish yet welcoming setting.

There's a buzz of energy as soon as you walk into the soft industrial space that has the feel of a modern neighborhood tavern but offers different dining “zones.” A long wooden communal table runs down the middle of the small restaurant while booths and a few tables look across to Elliot Bay and below to Pike Place Market. The best seat in the house: one of the stools at the stainless steel, sushi-style counter next to the kitchen.

The only art work is a huge photo mural of dramatically photographed fishing flies, which are surprisingly beautiful and set the tone for Steelhead Diner's fun yet serious cuisine. The diner's distinctive personality and commitment to quality reflects the owners' impressive credentials. Kevin, a classically trained chef from New Orleans, worked at Seattle's highly acclaimed Oceanaire Restaurant, while Australian-born Terresa, who brings credentials from several major Seattle restaurants, is the general manager.

Because they independently own and operate Steelhead, the Davis' are not beholden to investors and, therefore, have retained total control of what they serve. With access to vendors and farmers from the market, the food is incredibly fresh and spotlights seasonal produce and local cheeses. The menu is printed diner-style on paper placemats, but cloth napkins and a carefully chosen selection of reasonably priced Pacific Northwest wines (their motto is: Nothing south of Oregon, nothing east of Idaho) underscore Steelhead's serious intentions. Steelhead's creative twist is an inventive menu that offers delicious spins on Cajun, Asian and Pacific Northwest cuisines. The chef's Southern heritage pops up throughout the menu, especially in side dishes such as red beans and rice or crispy hominy cakes. It sounds like culinary schizophrenia but the Davis' magically bring it all together, creating an eclectic yet connected dining experience.

But wait — there’s also silky Alaska razor clam chowder made with whole Manila clams and a dash Oregon truffle emulsion The Alaska king salmon prepared with port-soaked cherries, smoked almonds and rosemary brown butter. You might start your meal with delicate Vietnamese-style spring rolls filled with crispy fried chicken, which sounds strange but adds a delightful crunch. The rich, smoky gumbo has just enough kick and features generous pieces of tender chicken and locally made Andouille sausage. With huge chunks of tender sweet Dungeness crab and absolutely no filler, the Steelhead's giant crab cake rivals any in Seattle (or perhaps anywhere). It's big enough to you really won't want to miss a bite or a drop of the zesty Louis sauce. Moving on to entrees, you'll have to decided if you're in the mood for a huge Southern-inspired Poor Boy sandwich, served with a mound of light crispy fries or one of the more sophisticated Pacific Northwest dishes. The Kasu marinated black cod is beautifully presented in fragrant broth laved with ginger while the Alaskan king salmon features luscious port-soaked cherries.

Desserts include a, sinfully rich chocolate pecan pie and a quadruple chocolate layer cake that resembles an elegant tower encased with coconut and almonds. For something less complicated, the scrumptious apple pan dowdy, a cross between apple pie and a fritter, is the perfect ending.