Joule

You've heard mixed reviews about this chic restaurant. Is it worth trying out?

Joule. But don't expect perfection.

Why go: Unique Korean-French fusion
Highlights:Dine at the kitchen counter for a great show
Service: Luke Warm
Forewarning:Very loud; street parking is challenging (pay lot next door)

Is Joule a dazzling gem of a restaurant or a slightly confused culinary vision? This small Wallingford restaurant, that blends Korean, French and American cuisines, is extraordinary yet slightly disappointing. Nevertheless, it's definitely worth a visit, especially if you love to explore cutting edge cuisine.

Husband and wife owners Rachael Yang and Seif Chirchi have incredible culinary pedigrees, including Alain Ducasse and Per Se in New York and Coupage in Seattle. But indifferent service and a baffling, too clever menu may undermine the often- remarkable cuisine. The limited menu is divided into curious categories: tossed (OK, we figured this meant salads), simmered, crisped, sparked and pickled. Items are described only by a list of ingredients: lamb sirloin, sesame leaf emulsion, and pickled fennel.

The ambiance is somewhat ambiguous: is Joule a chic, romantic Asian bistro or an incredibly loud storefront diner? While it's not elegant, the black tables and low lighting create an inviting first impression; unfortunately, the tables are close together and the noise level made conversation difficult.

Keeping these caveats in mind, Joule's unique personality and the chef's talents cannot be dismissed. However, figuring out what to order can be challenging. Dishes defined as “crisped” seem to qualify as appetizers although ordering several could equal a full meal. Because the menu is eclectic (perhaps more confusion than fusion), the individual items don't always complement each other; and the server didn't offer much guidance. Presented in charming miniature red enamel baking pans, “crisped” items include delicate lasagna of tender pasta layered with shitake mushrooms and a luscious combination of béchamel, ricotta and French bleu cheeses. Perfectly roasted carrots are laced with ginger butter, and the fluffy cornbread, which is more like a cake, is kissed with smoked Gouda. The bland black beans with tiny specs of pulled pork and soybean paste were less successful.

The "sparked" category refers to entrees, which can be shared but work better as individual courses. Poussin (AKA spring chicken) is beautifully glazed and served with a sweet and spicy lemon comfit, and the moist, simply prepared branzino (AKA sea bass) is served on the bone (ask to have the head removed if you are squeamish). The flavorful bison hanger was perfectly grilled and served with preserved garlic. A generous serving of tender prawns glisten with a fragrant butter made with middle eastern spices. Other entrees include short rib with a Kalbi marinade and veal sweetbreads served with pickled sweet pepper. Make sure to order something from the “pickled” category, such as the tangy cubes of daikon and Asian pear kimchi.

Desserts at Joule are labeled as “sweetened.” You can order a chocolate espresso cake or roasted apple and Kabocha squash galette. But you really don't want to miss the exquisite “Joule box,” a simply remarkable combination of tapioca pearls studded with ruby red grapefruit and sprinkled with slivers of opal basil. The unexpected flavors and textures harmonize beautifully, reflecting all that is special about this creative and unique restaurant.

Reservations: Yes (good idea for weekends)
Cost Starters: $6-11 Entrees: $12-22
Open: Dinner only, Tuesday-Sunday