Oceanaire Seafood Room

Next we shared a portion of Alaskan halibut. Overall, brevity punctuated Donnelly’s plating, but in a way that shined a spotlight on the indulgences of his offerings, the straightforward presentation recognizing the importance of its key element. The fillet was seared expertly, leaving the fish fluffy and moist while infusing the outside with the sharp flavor of the sauce. Concocted of strained tealeaves and drizzled atop with radishes and shallots, the coating gently complimented the tender whitefish. A Hudson Shah Riesling from Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills region added a sweet overtone to the experience that brought out the intricacy of Donnelly’s complementary parings. Indeed, Donnelly accomplished something that can be difficult to do with halibut—elevating the fish with sauce and vegetables rather than overpower the mild (but succulent) flavors.

Following the Halibut, we sipped a Côtes du Rhône Condrieu between bites of scallops served on a bed of savory beans. The thick medallions were plated enticingly in geometric quadrants. The light, flaky scallops once again showcased Donnelly’s ability to prepare seafood adroitly; always moist, always tender. The heaviness of the beans added depth and complexity to the airiness of the scallops.

The chef’s youthful exuberance is evident in his enthusiasm for cooking. He seems to be excited by changes of the seasons and the new ingredients and fresh produce they bring. For something different, we tried his lamb skirt steak accompanied by fresh button tomatoes, basil and a spicy olive oil. The steak, an unusual cut for a lamb dish, was browned perfectly, leaving the slightly gamey flavor of the meat to be accentuated by the tomatoes rather than masked. A burgundy selected from the impressive wine list smoothly settled our palate between bites.

For dessert, we shared two classics: a chocolate brownie and a slice key lime pie. Simple and elegant, the two were the perfect cap to nibble on after a night of complete satiation. The brownie, topped with vanilla bean ice cream, melted sweetly in my mouth. The pie, slightly tangy and refreshingly light, similarly pleased. Best of all, as we chatted about the courses we’d eaten, we spied Donnelly exiting quietly in a completely unassuming crewneck sweatshirt and side-satchel that was bike-messenger-esque. In this era of “Iron Chef” celebrities,  Donnelly seems comfortable to avoid the role of rock star and simply focus on his cuisine.